'Watu wa bara' stuck in Coast over high fares

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At the beginning of last year’s festive season, it was selfie after selfie as Nairobians made the annual migration to the Coast for celebrations. Social media was littered with photos of families who had thronged Mombasa beaches enjoying the sun, sea and madafu.

But come January and the story has changed as life’s hardships – and the reality of 2024 – firmly set in.

After blissful days spent with loved ones over the holiday, returning to the city has become a nightmare because of the increased cost of living. City dwellers who travelled to spend Christmas with their families in the villages have now been hit hard by the reality of going back to their towns.

For starters, the SGR Madaraka Express fares have been promptly raised from Sh1,000 to Sh1,500 per person economy class, and Sh3,000 to Sh4,500 per person first class.

Two city households in the village spoke to The Nairobian about the challenges they are facing after joining their families for Christmas and New Year celebrations in the villages.

Zawadi Bicho a resident of Malindi town and a mother of six travelled to Kakuyuni village for Christmas with her extended family.

She now says she doesn’t have enough money to go back to the city because of the hiked fare.

Zawadi, who lives in Mombasa Town with her family, will now be forced to spend more days in the village as she waits for fare to be reduced.

Fare from Mombasa to her village in Kakuyuni, Malindi has increased from Sh600 to Sh1,500. 

“I couldn’t afford Christmas and New Year clothes for my children and now I’m stranded here. My eldest daughter is expected to join junior secondary school next week and I have no money to buy her school uniform. So I don’t know what to do,’’ Zawadi said.

Zawadi further says she already has told her family they cannot afford transport so they will have to extend their village stay.

“I cannot afford to buy anything extra this new year because we spent almost what we had on Christmas,” Zawadi said.

Kahunda Kahindi is another resident who spent Christmas in the village and she says the celebrations were on a low budget.

“We had to cut down on the food and children’s clothes because we couldn’t afford to buy food apart from the bare essentials. It’s just heartbreaking, really,” said Kahunda.

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